Hostellerie des Gorges de Pennafort  

This light-filled hotel, modernized by Christophe Roustan and Charles Pitollet, is very discreet on the way out of Sainte-Maxime. As soon as you enter you forget the crazy life outside the doors. Jérôme Zueras' gastronomy demonstrates mastery and a sense of product that are rather rare around here. Pan-fried foie gras with carmelized black cherries; pan-fried rouget filets with risotto, anchovy cream and sprouts; cod in bourride sauce; langoustines and tomato confit; roasted pidgeon in casserole and small vegetables... signify an amplified Provence that runs all the way to the Basque country. The wine cellar treats Provence with respect and adds Bordeaux, but no foreign labels. Jérôme Zueras seems a solitary figure here across from St. Tropez, and more than one guide underrates him, but don't underestimate his talent. This is one of the Var coast's best restaurants.