Yuzu Sushi  

In the rash of sushi restaurants - so many near-misses and uncultivated addresses! - this is a rare find. Formerly sushi chef at Hanawa, a very chic Japanese restaurant on the Rue Bayard in Paris' 8th Arrondissement, Keiji Sakaguchi has just taken over this pocket-sized table with a Danish theme, far from the current sushimania. From Nordic cuisine to land of the rising sun, there's a world of sushi, exceptional here in freshness and craftsmanship. Delicious miso soup; wakame salad with marinated mackeral; nigiri sushi - 8 to 14 pieces - maki, California rolls, sashimi; mushroom consomme; genuine Japanese rice seasoned appropriately; green tea panacotta; Japanese beers.... No spectacle cuisine but, from the bar, we observe simple and precise gestures crafting M.Sakaguchi's sushi.