Yamato  

Is Japanese cuisine soluable in olive oil? You bet, under the magic touch of Koji Someya. Located in a 1920s-era house surrounded by an oriental garden with fountain, lotus, and bamboo, "Yamato" certainly doesn't lack for charm. Koji Someya puts his French training to advantage with new takes on shrimp and calamari tempura, poached fish, miso soup; tuna and sardines in seaweed broth, minced beef-cake with cébettes, mushroom-vegetable flan; marscapone with green tea granité, red-bean with vanilla, and sake provide punctuation. The talent is sure. Service is discreet and attentive. And if the prices are a little high it has been a very pleasant voyage through à land of unknown flavors. Truly.