L'Oustau de Baumanière  

The rocky chaos of the Val d'Enfer here takes on the feel of a certain kind of paradise. Under the watchful eye of Jean-André Charial, this address keeps its (Michelin) stars shining. Quiet revolution with the arrival of Sylvestre Wahid, a 32-year-old Pakistani who seconded Didier Elena in New York and comes from the Ducassian line. He has taken the Oustaou's south and the Baumanière spirit to heart, turning out dishes of impeccable precision, classic and alert. Lamb en croute, of course; but also tomato confit, sea spider, and "Bloody Mary" sorbet; Landes poultry, foie gras and black truffle; loup filet, artichokes and sauteed calimari in bouillabaisse reduction; fried veal jowl, carrots, and sweetmeats; figs roasted with orange, licorice, and cinnamon; iced cheesecake from Jonathan Wahid, patissier, which doesn't steal anything from the house classic crèpe soufflee Baumanière... show mastery and confidence. These straightforward dishes are escorted by high-end crus and Southern labels from a 60,000-bottle cellar watched over by Gilles Ozello. The four-year transition is a success: no running off of the faithful, while gently advancing the tradition. Sure of his kitchen crew, M.Charial can attend to his other Provence ventures.