Une Table au Sud  

Lionel Lévy is a blend of contradictions who's never where you think he'll be. In this upstairs restaurant overlooking the quays, he sends us on a journey in search of several Souths: Moroccan, Italian, Provençal. Cannelloni of Colonnata bacon with quinoa, urchins, and poutargue; Saint-Jacques nuggets with bulgar; creamy yogurt and herring caviar; a bit of revision with bouille-abaisse made up like a milkshake, a verrine in which the essence of rock fish breaths with a fragrance of brooks and streams. As always the chef opposes striking and harmonious notes, creating a story of tastes which he tells again in macaroni poutargue and celery; or Saint-Jacques nuggets with parsely root (for real). We are not bored, especially at dessert: blood orange tarte; tiramisu with hazelnut; glazed chestnuts and whiskey.... This is the work of a meticulous and imaginative chef who wisely cultivates audacity. Always a pleasure.