Lou Candeloun  

Despite the sign this isn't a Provençal nook in the small street descending from the Place aux Aires. Alexis Mayroux's cuisine is thoughtful and valorous. Chilled velouté, chorizo, Espelette pepper, and olive oil sorbet; pork filet spiked with bacon and olive risotto en cocotte; shellfish lasagne; roasted vegetables; Var goat cheese and mesclun or apricot tartelette and vanilla ice cream... are the honest fare of a cook's kitchen. There is a touch of the feminine in the large floral bouquet, ocre and white walls, decorative objects on each table, and Sophie's smiling welcome. The wine card holds some excellent local choices.