Félix  

Cannes is unimaginable without Félix, created in 1953. And it's clear that Félix today has nothing to do with Félix of yesteryear. Nicolas Rondelli, a veteran of Alain Llorca at the Negresco and other locations orchestrates this second life with dynamic, fresh dishes: red tuna in three versions - carpaccio, spiced confit, tartar with olive oil - cod à la plancha and chilled white beans with girolles; line-caught loup and cuttlefish roasted with Espelette pepper; blette and baby artichoke barigoule; marscapone cream and cassis sorbet.... Nice small goat cheeses from the Var and some Provence labels add to the spirit of this lively cuisine where taste and texture blend. Totals are a bit tempered this year - a very nice menu at 65 Euros - and things almost become democratic with the lunch suggestions between 20 and 30 Euros. This is high-caliber gastronomy, even if we get the impression that the chef has not pushed his limits that much.