Auberge la Fenière  

We knew it as wise, with a discreet beauty, done up in natural tones and losing itself in the surrounding country. But - fasten your seatbelts - the Sammut's La Fenière is not the same. Take off into a world of clashing colors: pepper red for one room, electric blue for another, technicolor dishes and seats, expo of modern sculptures... a seizure of madness, a mistral of modernity in this old postal relay up to now so calm and romantic. We enjoy the audacity of the transformation, orchestrated by art collector Stéphane Cristol. And the cooking? Reine holds fast to the Southern road he has nurtured for over 30 years. Sicily, Greece, Tunisia, Libya, Turkey, Malta, and Provence (joined by Andalusia) gather around this gourmet table with their colors, aromas, spices, perfumed oils, and sun-filled products. The cuisine is full of nuance and delicacy, traditional but devilish. The brandad-stuffed macaroni with fish soup perfumed with fennel gives the tone, preceding for example à lamb slice gratin. Occasionally the garlic and olive oil abuse their privileges but the customers don't mind. We appreciate also the ambiance (sometimes musical) and the tastes of the "Cour de Ferme" - the bistro side of the auberge. The vast wine cellar overseen by Guy Sammut is stuffed with vintages from Spain, Italy, Greece, and even America.