Le Poivre d'Ane  

The name refers to the Provence herb sarriette. In this small, contemporary restaurant in town center, a trio of talented partners bring in the crowds every night. The Aixois are happy to rediscover Thierry Coulmeau whom they knew in a former Poivre d'Ane, Rue Couronne, almost 20 years ago. Time does not seem to have changed the devlish and passionate 50-something who practices a willingly modern cuisine drawing on the solid foundations of the Relais & Chateaux. He displays audacity. Oyster tartar warm-cold in yuzu-sake emulsion might have been a detour; instead it seduces. Same astonishing satisfaction with rouget in pastry, cuttlefish, beetroot, chilled foie gras and pleurotte. A table to please discriminating chums.