La Merenda  

Nothing has changed, and all the better, at this heritage table created by local heros Christiane and Jean Giusti. Here Dominique Le Stanc enjoys the innkeeper's life he took on in 1996 with no regrets. There's the morning market, the preparation of these meals served on red-checkered tablecloths, the menu chalked up each day, and the clients who press into the small dining room to keep him busy. He offers them Southern cooking and the recipes of yesterday's Nice. Pissaladière without anchovies, alias "tourte de Menton"; small crispy pizza; tripe; tête de veau sauce gribiche; zucchini beignets; fresh pasta pesto; beef tail à l'orange; raw small beans; pancetta and mulled egg; tartine with Tende herbs and lemon tart ... all washed down with Provence wines. A warm welcome for regulars and tourists alike, but you have to come and get it. No phone, no fax, no internet; what's more, no checks and no credit cards. On the other hand - you get the authentic Le Stanc.