Le Caprice des Deux  

Philippe and Stéphane Avelain have been here so long they practically own the street. A revitalized interior, but the cuisine remains one of the most consistent in the center of town - warm and welcoming. They serve regional specialties with neither resignation nor repetition, adding some Southwest variants for a change of pace. Foie gras terrine and stewed onions; tuna sushi style; spicy beef salad with pourpier; pan-fried prawns in coconut milk curry; minced roasted magret with truffle jus; apple and fig tatin and white cheese sorbet... exciting and reassuring, well made, beautifully served if a bit high-water (61 Euros). The wine offers Bordeaux grand crus and Provence labels. With its small defects and its regularity this festive table easily defies the shooting star addresses that surge and vanish in the village center each season.