L'Escourtin (Hôtel Le Moulin de la Camandoule)  

On the Fayence plain, Shirley and Wolf Rilla have restored an old oil mill, preserving both the artifacts and the atmosphere of a time gone by. Chef Philippe Choisy finds his inspiration in this tender Provence and puts his precision to such dishes as baby artichoke ravioles with black truffle; stuffed trout with fennel confit; roasted lamb with herbs; grated potatoes and chanterelles; risotto with mushrooms, pinenuts and coriander cream. Intelligent if sometimes conventional - or chic. The menu prices remain immutable and wise, as do those for the Provence vintages. We're somewhat concerned that the cuisine is resting on its laurels; nonetheless you find space here, and peace, in a sunny auberge that's prized by an anglo-saxon clientele.