Les Chênes Verts  

It's true that "monsieur Paul" Bajade doesn't fit the image of a media chef, but he remains one of the pillars of authentic Provençal cooking. The timidly-named gourmet sampler (menu dégustation) is in reality one of the most impressive tours of the market we've ever seen at this price and with this level of flavoring. Stewed small escargot and pig's feet flan with herbs; tete-de-veau and mesclun; risotto with rosemary; crawfish and cèpe puree; roasted vegetable and leek root; roasted lamb nuggets with herbs; Bresse chicken two ways; lavender honey ice cream.... With each dish a precise flavor and disarming simplicity. This is "country" gastronomy. As for the truffle, it has its own menu (145 Euros), perfuming a grilled egg; whole in pastry; in a sorbet; accompanying a lamb dish; sauteed with foie gras; finally braised with almonds. Some good wines, of course: Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Provençal and a discreet and solicitous welcome from the faithful William. Ronald Searle drawings on the walls in a warm dining hall.