Ondine  

This is one of our favorite beach-side restaurants, across from the Miramar. Jean-Pierre Silva has what it takes to bring customers in and make them happy. On the Croisette, nothing has changed. The decor has been touched up, and a touching, impeccable, immutable classicism endures. Products - loup, daurade royale, langoustes, lobster, lamb - are irreproachable. People rave about the generous mixed plates, foie gras and marinated salmon; half lobsters (à l'amoricain, curry, and thermidor); sole meunière; lamb with herbs; classic desserts. Perfect cooking times, very polished service and some dependable crus, especially from Provence. You're wary of the check, but all's well, and you know that it's less lively, less good, and just as expensive elsewhere in town.

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