Hiély Lucullus  

A winning bet. Since 2007, when they took over this mythic address close to the Place de l'Horloge, the Azoulay brothers have rejuvenated, without mummifying, this Avignon institution which goes back to 1938. At first together, Laurent, who also manages the stoves at Saule Pleureur in Monteux, and his son Gérald maintained a balance between art (classic) and the manner (modern) of their creativity. Alone at the stoves for a year now, Gérald has lightened up the carte and the prices without forgetting the house specialties, to which a menu (29 Euros) is dedicated. He revisits traditional Provençal cuisine with no baggage: irreproachable pied et paquets, for example, but accompanied by a fragrant risotto with celery and black truffle; but we prefer the Camargue beef with shallots confit; or escargot and crawfish associated in a pumpkin gratin with champagne sabayon. The "vintage" delight of the place is the vaulted wine cellar down below where Rhone Valley and Chateauneuf-du-Pape are easily found. Service by the carafe all year, and Gérald's companion Patricia manages the attentive service.

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