L'Oustau de Baumanière  

The rocky chaos of the Val d'Enfer here takes on the feel of a certain kind of paradise. Under the watchful eye of Jean-André Charial, this address keeps its (Michelin) stars shining. A quiet revolution took place several years back with the arrival of Sylvestre Wahid, a young Pakistani who seconded Didier Elena in New York and comes from the Ducassian line. He has taken the Oustaou's South and the Baumanière spirit to heart, turning out dishes of impeccable precision, classic and alert. Lamb en croute, of course; but also tomato confit, sea spider, and "Bloody Mary" sorbet; Landes poultry, foie gras and black truffle; loup filet, artichokes and sauteed calimari in bouillabaisse reduction; fried veal jowl, carrots, and sweetmeats; figs roasted with orange, licorice, and cinnamon; iced cheesecake which doesn't steal anything from the house classic crèpe soufflee Baumanière... show mastery and confidence. These straightforward dishes are escorted by high-end crus and Southern labels from a 70,000-bottle cellar. Here the past and the present are joined by a delicate, but strong, thread.