La Palme d'Or  

Every season Christian Sinicropi brings new ideas. He had a lost period, distracted by idea swings and poetic titles of his dishes - were there products and tastes in these dishes from fantasy land? Then it was over. So much so that this passionate painter-chef, while he enjoys making the world over, has brought feeling and savors back to his gastronomy. A creation nodding to the Niçois artist Moya features grilled Saint-Jacques, artichokes and pink lentilles with cod shreds. Droll, droll, indeed - but the milk-fed veal jowl confit and flakes of black truffle, vitelotte (potato) mousse and carrots mimosa is of absolute tenderness; the lobster thermidor with its potato confit full of fragrance and finesse; and for an unexpected good-old-boy dish the bone marrow, beef tail, and veal jowl in fresh tartar with olive oil and celery with gorgonzola. We get the impression of a cuisine always on line but which, happily, doesn't lose its wisdom. This is Sinicropi the Enchanter, Merlin of the Croisette, whose writing is sometimes distracting: "the region is made of metal", "encounter with Jean Camos" (for a subtle appetizer of spider crab cooked like a créme caramel)... while dessert time sobers up with creamed chocolate with crunchy pastry and Tonka bean ice cream. This "poetic cooking" seems to be the most independent on the Côte, fitting for a restaurant with clean lines, illustrated by photos of the stars. And for other kinds of savors the Martinez has other tables: the Relais, offering wise Mediterranean for around 50 Euros; or good snacking at Z Plage with woks, ceviché and tandoori dishes. The Martinez itself continues its lovely contemporary life (six prestige suites overlooking the Mediterranean and 1,000 sq. meters in the Penthouse), the only historic Cannes palace to maintain a gastronomy worthy of its name. It should get a medal just for that.

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