La Colombe d'Or  

The stars here aren't at the stoves. La Colombe is unique on the Côte d'Azur, a precious home of art and atmosphere that has comforted many a starving artist: Pagnol, Giono, Prévert, Picasso, Chagall. With a little effort she'll soon be a centenary address. On the terrace under the fig trees we sample a vegetable basket and terrine; summer truffle salad; cèpe fricassee; rabbit civet; aioli with five vegetables; broiled beef and gratin dauphinois... simple, sunny cuisine. Some grand crus on the wine card, but also local vintages. Works by Picasso, Miro, Leger, Braque, Calder, and Tobiasse surround you. Of a summer evening you can almost feel a little like a celebrity yourself, and besides, the real spectacle is the clientele: whatever the guidebooks might say there are customers from the world over filling up the terrace.